The Karlsruhe Chronicles: My Research Stay in 8 Questions and Answers

Photo: Yajna Sewmohan

Thick, grey clouds crowd the sky above. The bottom of each cloud appears flatter and darker than the top, creating the impression that they are pressed against some invisible dome stretching across the sky. Much like these clouds, my head—clad in a black woolly hat still damp from the rain that fell intermittently in Karlsruhe—rests against the cold glass window of a lime-green Flixbus en route to Frankfurt Airport. As I gaze out through the rain-speckled window, I find myself reflecting on my research stay in Karlsruhe, which came and went as swiftly as the landscape (and some sleek sports cars) racing past on either side of the highway. Wishing to capture some of my reflections, I reach for my laptop in the bulky backpack beside me and begin to type. *** As a member of the WoPedyP project, I was given the opportunity to travel to Karlsruhe in Germany for a three-month research stay from 30 June to 3 October. While looking forward to escaping the winter at home in South Africa, I was apprehensive about everything that lay ahead. Nevertheless, as my impending journey drew closer, more immediate concerns quickly replaced my worries about navigating a new city and work environment. For one, I had to complete all the administrative tasks necessary for my departure from South Africa and arrival in Germany. These included completing my visa application, obtaining letters from the relevant institutions to support the application, and searching for and securing my own accommodation. None of these processes or tasks were simple, intuitive, or stress-free. Thankfully, Deepthi and Nerhene provided guidance in some respects and offered plenty of helpful information and tips. I am also immensely grateful for and appreciative of my family members, who supported me as I navigated these unfamiliar waters and assisted me in covering the very immediate (and sometimes less than explicit) costs of some of the processes. *** Introduction: My Arrival I arrived in Karlsruhe on a cloudy, dull, and dreary afternoon, much like today, by way of an ICE train from Frankfurt Airport. Rolling two large travel bags—one with each hand—I weaved through the crowd at the central station (Karlsruhe Hbf) and made my way to the tram lines outside. No sooner had I stepped out than the sky opened, unleashing a deluge of rain that left the pavement looking as if it had glistening mirrors scattered across it. Seeing that I had time on my side, I went back indoors and sank my teeth into a warm pretzel from one of the kiosks while waiting for the rain to stop or at least slow down. Once the rain subsided, I went outside again and headed toward the correct tram stop. Not long after, my tram screeched to a halt in front of me. As the doors hissed open, a flurry of passengers spilt out, dodging puddles as they made their way toward the Hbf. Once everyone waiting with me boarded, I started to haul my bags from the pavement onto the tram. Wrestling my second bag into the tram just as the doors slid shut, I watched helplessly as my first bag hurtled down the aisle when the train lurched forward. Trying to keep my balance, I rushed after it, drawing curious glances as I clumsily manoeuvred my second bag behind me, making sure not to bump anyone with it. Flustered and mortified, I retrieved my rogue bag, now at rest near the doors, and retreated to a corner. There, I wedged both bags firmly between myself and the tram wall, determined to avoid any more mishaps. Unbeknownst to me at the time was that this was just one of many more mishaps to come over the three months—all of which I learned from and can chuckle about as I recall them now. Once the tide of embarrassment ebbed, my focus turned to the misted glass of the tram doors opposite me. Watching the city blur past through the haze was soporific. I also remember feeling a bit overwhelmed, disorientated and unmoored. I could not recognise or associate with the rows of unfamiliar buildings and shops or understand the signs and adverts (which were written in German). Not a few weeks prior, I used Google Maps and the street view function to try to familiarise myself with the layout of the city, the major roads and the tram stops, as well as the route from the Hbf to my rented apartment. As it turned out, travelling through the place in real time was very different. Hence, for a fleeting moment, I doubted whether I’d ever really find my way in Karlsruhe, both literally and figuratively. However, having lived in other countries for more extended periods of time, I knew this disconnected sense of place and the accompanying feelings wouldn’t last forever. And, of course, they didn’t. Over time, the streets, tram stops, and landmarks gradually transformed from spaces into meaningful places linked to my many experiences in the city. Below, I recount some of these through eight questions and answers. *** Karlsruhe through eight Q&As Q1: What was your first impression of Karlsruhe? Honestly, I didn’t form much of an impression at first. When I arrived, the rain was relentless, casting a grey pall over the city. It wasn’t until the following morning that Karlsruhe began to reveal itself to me. At 04:00 on a calm and quiet Sunday, I laced up my running shoes and headed out for a long, steady run along the Alb River and then through the city and Palace Gardens. The air was crisp, carrying the faint aroma of wet earth and blooming flowers. Along the way, I passed a couple of impressive churches, their spires gilded by the soft light of dawn. They contributed significantly to what I experienced as a unique charm of the city with its blend of older and modern architecture, wide streets, and quaint walking paths interspersed with green spaces and parks, all crisscrossed by tram lines. In sum, I experienced Karlsruhe, with its unique design and many pockets of natural beauty, as charming, pleasant and quietly inspiring. Q2: What was the research experience like? Incredible. Working face-to-face added a new dimension to our research and teamwork that virtual meetings can’t replicate. Conversations flowed more freely, and ideas came more spontaneously. Beyond the work, these in-person interactions fostered a camaraderie that, I would like to think, made our team stronger. Whether discussing ideas over coffee or brainstorming ways forward late into the afternoon, I was inspired by the collective energy. This was the case when I interacted with the WoPedyP project team based in Karlsruhe (Deepthi and Gertrud) and the entire WoPedyP project team, who were all together for the first time in Karlsruhe for the mini-conference held in September. Q3: What about life outside the lab or office? Karlsruhe’s flat terrain, parks, and gardens made it ideal for running, a hobby I quickly resumed in my free time. My favourite route took me down Linkenheimer Allee and looped back through the serene castle gardens. The fresh morning air, tall trees, and greenery were a perfect backdrop for reflection, helping me prepare for a day at the office. I also started climbing, a new challenge that helped me make strides in overcoming my fear of heights. On weekends, I explored parts of Karlsruhe and visited nearby cities. My trip to Heidelberg was undoubtedly a highlight of my stay. It was second only to my hike with Gertrud through the Black Forest and into Baden-Baden, where we encountered various dahlias. I also identified a spot within the monastery there that I thought was ideal for thinking and writing. Figure 1: Dahlia's in Baden-Baden, my writing spot in the monastery & a misty hike through the Black Forest. Q3: Did you form meaningful connections during your stay? Absolutely. During my stay, I had the privilege of meeting incredible people who truly enriched my experience. Whether through engaging conversations, shared meals, tea and coffee breaks, or spontaneous walks and trips, these interactions blossomed into meaningful professional connections and genuine friendships. I am sure these bonds will last far beyond my brief time in Karlsruhe. Q4: Any challenges or moments of adjustment? Most certainly. One of the most unexpected and frustrating challenges I faced came shortly after registering my address in Karlsruhe. Within weeks, I received a notice from the ARD requiring me to register for Germany’s mandatory broadcasting fee (Rundfunkbeitrag)—a standard practice I was prepared for. However, what I wasn’t prepared for was a follow-up letter, entirely in German, which, once translated, informed me that I owed fees not just for my three-month stay but also for the four months prior to my arrival in Germany. As it turned out, the previous occupant of my apartment hadn’t paid their fees, and the cost was being passed on to me. I immediately contacted the ARD, writing emails and attempting phone calls to explain the situation. Despite my efforts, the bill remained firmly attached to my name. Time and again, my explanations that I wasn’t even in the country during those months seemed to fall on deaf ears. Eventually, with a growing fear that this unresolved bill might wrongfully lead to my being blacklisted or similar, I reluctantly paid the additional €72, on top of the €54 I already owed for my three-month stay. The unfair treatment and frustrating experience were a stark reminder of the complexities of navigating bureaucratic systems in a foreign country. It also taught me patience, persistence, and the importance of planning for unexpected hurdles and costs when living abroad. More generally, the language barrier posed a significant challenge. This was particularly so when having casual conversations with locals, collecting my stipend bi-weekly from the bank, buying a quick meal, checking out at the counter in the grocery stores and trying to navigate the infamous “red tape”. Whilst I did have a handful of unpleasant encounters, there were – for the most part – people who were understanding and helpful. Moreover, over time, I learnt some very basic German words and phrases which – although I didn’t always pronounce them well – helped me get around a bit easier. Q5: What were your key takeaways from the experience? First, I want to reiterate that my experience involved learning, adapting, and forming connections that have profoundly impacted both my personal and professional life. While it was not all sunshine and rainbows, the warmth of the people I encountered, the excitement of new challenges, and the beauty of small daily routines made it an unforgettable journey. I am genuinely thankful to my host institution and the funders who made this enriching journey possible. Moreover, I am grateful to my colleagues and friends, without whom this experience would have been markedly different. Then, regarding my takeaways, I learned the value of stepping out of my comfort zone. Navigating a new environment, grappling with its challenges, and immersing myself in its rhythm taught me how to find my footing, no matter how disoriented I initially felt. Additionally, the research stay reinforced the importance of face-to-face communication when it comes to teamwork and collaboration. For sure, working and sharing ideas in person helped build trust and rapport within our international, multidisciplinary team, adding richness to our collaborative endeavours that virtual interactions cannot replicate. On a lighter, more literal note, the culinary discoveries I made in Karlsruhe and other cities in Germany were their own sort of takeaway. I tried foods I might never have encountered otherwise and found some surprising new favourites. These included pierogies, maultaschen, pumpkin pie, bratwurst, and federweißer, a fresh, slightly fizzy young wine of early fall. Q6: What do you miss most about Karlsruhe? It’s difficult to pinpoint just one thing because what I miss is a mosaic of places, experiences, and meaningful connections, each tied to a memory or feeling. That said, somewhere at the top of my list would be running on Linkenheimer Allee, which cut through a sizeable forest, as well as on the main road through the city centre in the early hours of the morning. The experience of zipping through a city that was still waking up offered a quiet and peculiar kind of companionship. I also miss the custom ramen dishes that I could assemble at OneBowl, a cosy eating spot opposite the climbing gym that I frequented—sometimes with friends and sometimes alone. And then there’s the freshly baked goods: various breads, bagels, pastries, and pretzels. There was something magical about tearing into a hot pretzel with its golden sheen and coat of coarse salt or toasted pumpkin seeds as I walked to the office. This brings me to the next thing I miss: my walks to the office via my favourite street, Sophienstraße. Strolling down this street, I found myself not only reflecting on my research but also appreciating the small details around me. These included the enchanting balconies adorned with colourful flowers and the fuzzy bees that would land on them ever so gently before nimbly crawling to their centres. Most of all, I miss my colleagues—who transformed work into something truly enriching—as well as the friends I made. The latter, with whom I shared laughter, deep conversations, and somewhat spontaneous plans, helped make Karlsruhe feel like yet another home away from home. Q7: Would you return to Karlsruhe? In a heartbeat. Karlsruhe isn’t just a place I visited; it’s where I lived, learned, and grew. Whether for postdoctoral studies, a reunion with friends, or to watch the light show at the Karlsruhe Castle (Schlosslichtspiele) again and sprint through the castle gardens once more, I’d love to return. Q8: Any advice for others planning a research stay abroad? Dive in wholeheartedly. Embrace the challenges, from the paperwork to the cultural differences. Get to know the place—walk, explore, and connect with people. It’s not just the work that will define your stay, but the memories made, friendships formed, and experiences you had along the way.

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